On Tuesday 18 June 2024, Dreweatts held its Fine Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Luxury Accessories auction. We had the great privilege of selling ‘The Eltham Palace’ Cartier diamond and gem brooches from the collection of Sir Stephen and Lady Virginia Courtauld. In a full circle moment, these stunning pieces of jewellery have now returned back to Eltham Palace, having been acquired by English Heritage. Now on display, visitors are afforded the opportunity to see these brooches within the historic context in which they were created.
Originally owned by Bishops and Earls, Eltham Palace became a centre for the royal courts and reached the height of its trajectory during Edward IV's reign in the second half of the 15th century, culminating with the creation of the Great Hall. After a slow decline in popularity during Henry VIII's reign, the continued lapse in interest saw the once magnificent palace fall into a dilapidated state by the 1650s.
Sir Stephen Courtauld, (1883-1967) the second son to the famous Courtauld textile family and Virginia Peirano (1883-1973), the daughter of a prosperous shipping merchant married in 1923. Stephen being scholarly and reserved and Virginia being vivacious and eccentric, their life together was a happy one and they were known for their philanthropic ventures, adventurous natures, and eccentricities. A decade into their marriage, they acquired the lease on the ruinous Eltham Palace and began the transformation of the originally important medieval royal residence into a stunning red brick and stone Art Deco palace. They took inspiration from Hampton Court, and sympathetically incorporated the meticulously restored medieval Great Hall that was built by Edward IV, ensuring its survival for generations to come. Here they resided with their much-loved pet, Mah Jong the lemur whose presence at Eltham Palace is much documented.
Although Sir Stephen and Lady Courtauld only lived at Eltham Palace for around eight years, the importance of the house they created and its origins were epitomised in these brooches. They were commissioned from Cartier for Lady Courtauld in December 1934 and then presented to her by Sir Stephen in 1937. The brooches are in the form of King Edward IV cyphers; one designed as the White Rose of York upon the starburst of Richard II, known as the ‘Rose en Soleil’, whilst the other shows a fetterlock surrounding a falcon. They were made by Cartier using the stained-glass window designs of George Kruger Gray. The windows were installed at Eltham Palace in 1936 and can still be seen in the Great Hall.
Exemplifying the exquisite craftsmanship for which Cartier is famous for, the 'Rose en Soleil' brooch shows the white Tudor rose set with pavé single cut diamonds with a cross hatched citrine centre. The rose sits within a sunburst surround which is half set with kite shaped sapphires and the other half with kite shaped pink tourmalines. The other brooch features the falcon, pavé set with single cut diamonds, while the background is half set with a cross hatched pink tourmaline, and the other half with a cross hatched sapphire.
The brooches were purchased by English Heritage with a generous grant from Art Fund, and a contribution from the Wolfson Foundation. Commenting on the acquisition Kevin Booth, English Heritage’s Head Collections Curator, said: “Virginia Courtauld’s beautiful, Cartier diamond and gem set brooches epitomise the glamorous, modern spirit that Stephen and Virginia brought to Eltham Palace when they restored and extended it in the 1930s. The brooches perfectly bring together the old in the form of Edward IV’s cyphers, and the new with a 1930s palette of pink tourmaline and blue sapphire – which is exactly what Virginia and Stephen set out to do at Eltham. The brooches are not only significant as pieces of high-quality Cartier workmanship, but as a deeply personal gift from husband to wife. It’s wonderful that they have found their way home.”
Eltham Palace, Court Yard, Eltham, Greenwich, London SE9 5NP
Opening Hours:
Wednesday - Sunday: 10am-4pm (last admission at 3.30pm)
Monday & Tuesday: Closed
Enquiries: 020 8294 8065
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