“I was fed up with holding my purses in my hands and losing them, so I added a strap and carried them over my shoulder.” - Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

The Origins of a Revolution and Early Development

The story of the 2.55 begins long before the bag’s official debut. It was as early as 1929, that Gabrielle Chanel conceived a radical idea: a handbag designed to be worn over the shoulder, freeing women’s hands at a time when elegance still demanded constraint. Inspired by the straps on the utilitarian satchels worn by soldiers in the 1920s, Chanel envisioned a bag that balanced beauty with ease. This was a recurring theme in all her work, as she emphasised when she stated, “Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance”.

After refining the concept for decades, Chanel revisited the design in 1954, and in February 1955, she unveiled the Flap Bag. It was named simply after the date of its release: 2.55. Crafted in supple lambskin, the bag featured diamond quilting, inspired by the jackets of race horse jockeys and the cushioned furnishings of Chanel’s Paris apartment. A running stitch gave the bag both structure and softness, sculptural, yet pliant. The rectangular turn-lock clasp, which Chanel christened the "Mademoiselle", was a discreet nod to her unmarried status.

The metal chain shoulder strap was equally revolutionary. When metal shortages arose, Chanel ingeniously wove leather through the links, creating a detail that would later become one of the house’s most recognisable signatures.

A Secret World Inside

The interior of the 2.55 was as considered as its exterior. The interior was lined in deep burgundy leather, which was a reference to the uniform Chanel wore at the Aubazine Abbey orphanage in Corrèze, where she was raised. The bag featured a double flap construction, with a zip pocket beneath the top flap - said to be reserved for love letters - and an exterior back pocket, commonly referred to as the “Mona Lisa” pocket, designed for discreet access to money whilst keeping safely close to the body.

In combining elegance with genuine practicality, Chanel quietly revolutionised women’s fashion. The 2.55 was frequently seen being worn by such fashion icons, such as Jacqueline Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s. 

The Karl Lagerfeld Era and the Birth of the Classic Flap

A new chapter began in 1982, when Karl Lagerfeld was appointed Creative Director of Chanel. In 1983, Lagerfeld reinterpreted the 2.55 for a new generation, unveiling what would become the Classic Flap Bag.

Lagerfeld replaced the Mademoiselle lock with the now-iconic interlocking CC turn-lock; introduced the leather-woven chain as standard; and refined the proportions. The result was a modern evolution of Coco Chanel’s original vision, instantly recognisable, irresistibly glamorous, and destined for cult status. The Classic Flap was an immediate success, rapidly becoming a global symbol of luxury and sophistication. Princess Diana regularly wore her Chanel bag to both formal and casual events. Decades later, its desirability remains undiminished.

Craftsmanship and Material Poetry: Form, Texture, and Line

Each Classic Double Flap is handcrafted at Chanel’s Métiers d’Art workshops, requiring over 15 hours and approximately 180 meticulous steps to complete. Over the years, the bag has been produced in a range of materials, from the early jersey leather versions to lambskin and calfskin - now the two most sought-after options.

Lambskin is prized for its buttery softness and luminous finish, offering unparalleled elegance. Caviar leather, a grained calfskin named for its roe-like texture, is celebrated for its durability and structure.

While the Classic Flap has appeared in exotic leathers such as ostrich, crocodile and alligator, Chanel announced in 2018 that it would cease the use of exotic skins.

Sizes and Silhouettes, Variations and Evolutions

The Classic Flap has been produced in a range of sizes to suit every lifestyle, with the Small (24 × 14.5 × 6.5 cm) and Medium (25.5 × 16 × 7.5 cm) being the standard sizes.  Other sizes include the Mini (16.5 × 14 × 6.5 cm), the Jumbo (30 × 20 × 10 cm) and the Maxi (33 × 23 × 10 cm).

Beyond the Classic Double Flap, Chanel has introduced numerous variations over the decades, each reflecting the spirit of its time.

The Legacy Continues

1983 – Single Flap

Designed by Lagerfeld, this streamlined version omitted the interior flap, making it lighter and easier to access. Particularly popular in Jumbo and Maxi sizes, it was discontinued in 2014.

1997 – Wallet on Chain (WOC)
A compact crossbody, combining a wallet and handbag, often considered an entry point into the world of Chanel Flaps.

2004 – East West Flap
A sleek, baguette-style silhouette with a wider, flatter profile, produced throughout the 2000s.

2005 – Reissue 2.55

Introduced to mark the bag’s 50th anniversary, Lagerfeld paid direct homage to Coco Chanel’s original design. Featuring the Mademoiselle lock and an all-metal chain, the Reissue remains a purist’s favourite.

2010 – Mini Flap

A perfectly timed response to the mini-bag movement, offering compact proportions with maximum impact.

2011 – Boy Bag
Named after Arthur “Boy” Capel, Chanel’s great love, this design introduced a more structured, androgynous aesthetic.

2019 – Chanel 19

Designed by Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard, featuring oversized quilting, mixed hardware, and a top handle chain. This bag was Lagerfeld’s final creative statement for the house.

From Classic Flap to 11.12: A New Name for an Icon

In 2021, Chanel officially renamed the Classic Flap the 11.12, referencing the original Medium Classic Flap’s style code, A01112. While the name may have changed, the essence remains untouched.

Today, the Chanel 2:55, Classic Flap and 11.12 continue to captivate collectors and fashion devotees alike. They are timeless icons that transcend trends and decades, and are collected, worn, inherited, and re-encountered across generations. The Chanel Flap Bag is valued not only for its aesthetic and craftsmanship, but also for its historical significance and enduring cultural relevance. In the world of luxury handbags, this is a handbag that continues to define what modern luxury looks, feels, and moves like, and few pieces can claim such enduring relevance, or have been so consistently validated by fashion’s most influential editorial institutions. Fewer still can claim to have changed fashion forever. The Chanel bag was neatly summed up by Inès de la Fressange, Karl Lagefeld’s muse and face of Chanel in the 1980s, when she said, “A Chanel bag is never a trend, it’s part of a woman’s life.”

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Auction Details

Wednesday 18 March 2026, 10.30am GMT
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE

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