Born on June 24, 1907, in Mulhouse, France, Schlumberger grew up in a prominent textile-industry family but showed early interest in art and design rather than joining the family business. After moving to Paris, he began his creative career designing buttons for fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s. His flair for whimsical, surreal motifs quickly drew attention, and he soon expanded into jewellery.

The Art of Imagination: Schlumberger’s Iconic Designs

Following World War II, Schlumberger, together with business partner Nicolas Bongard, opened a small jewellery salon in New York. His distinctive aesthetic, marked by organic forms, vivid colours, and naturalistic motifs such as sea life, flora, and fantastical creatures quickly attracted a devoted clientele.

Exemplifying his fascination with the natural world are these 1950s diamond-set brooches, one rendered in a stylised foliate motif, the other in the form of a fruit, with the leaves on each pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Notably, both pieces also bear the maker’s mark of Henri Picq, a master craftsman whose workshop created some of the most intricate platinum work for Cartier. The collaboration of these two remarkable talents, Schlumberger’s imaginative design and Picq’s technical mastery, produces jewels that are not only visually captivating but also historically significant as exemplars of supreme craftsmanship.

The Legacy of Schlumberger at Tiffany & Co.

In 1956, Tiffany & Co. invited Schlumberger to join the house as a designer, granting him the rare honour of designing under his own name. At Tiffany & Co., he created some of the company’s most iconic pieces, including the famous Bird on a Rock setting for the Tiffany Yellow Diamond. His work was beloved by many notable clients, including Jacqueline Kennedy, whom inspired the name of the “Jackie Bracelets,” which she frequently wore. An excellent example of the Schlumberger & Tiffany & Co. partnership can be seen in this spectacular Star Sapphire and Diamond Dress Ring which sold at Dreweatts for £68,750.

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Schlumberger’s creations are celebrated for their imaginative artistry, exceptional craftsmanship, and joyful sense of wonder. He continued designing until his retirement in the late 1970s. Jean Schlumberger died in Paris on August 29, 1987, leaving behind a legacy as one of the 20th century’s most original and influential jewellery designers.

Jean Schlumberger Auction Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery  from luxury brands such as Jean Schlumberger at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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