On Wednesday 24 November, we have our auction of Fine Jewellery and Pens featuring some stunning pieces of jewellery. Here James Nicholson, Dreweatts' Deputy Chairman and Head of Jewellery, Silver and Watches, takes a look at some of the auction highlights and the very different, but highly influential jewellery designers of the 20th century from the USA, the United Kingdom and from Italy.
Seaman Schepps led the way in American jewellery design in the 1940s, 50s and 60s, becoming renowned as 'America's Court Jeweller' in the post Second World War period. This was due to his extensive clientele list which included members of American high society from President Franklin Delano Roosevelt and the Duchess of Windsor, to members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families, as well as the world of the arts with celebrities such as Katherine Hepburn, Coco Chanel and Andy Warhol.
Seaman Schepps innovative bold designs made use of coloured gemstones, chosen for their texture and bright colours, in whimsical forms and often using more unorthodox materials such as seashells. His designs included sculptural hand-carved rock crystal brooches depicting sea life and animals, embellished with a variety of coloured gemstones to bring them to life.
Stephen Webster MBE has been at the forefront of British jewellery design since establishing his own jewellery brand in 1989. His jewellery designs are famed for their slightly revolutionary edge, using responsibly sourced materials including Fairtrade gold. Webster often takes Gothic themes, such as skulls, and turns them into jewels of beauty which have found celebrity admirers such as Madonna, Kate Moss and Johnny Depp.
One of the most admired Italian goldsmiths of the twentieth century is Mario Buccellati. He opened his first jewellery boutique in Milan in 1919. Buccellati pioneered unique gold engraving and texturing techniques which have remained the trade-mark of the firm's jewellery ever since.
Gratia Scott Oldfield’s love of art and design was chiefly inspired by her mother, Baroness Horora von Fürstenberg, who is an expert in the Decorative Arts and lecturered at the V&A Museum and the Met Museum, New York, amongst other places.
Gratia qualified as an interior designer in 1986 after having completed the Decorative Arts Short Course at the V&A. In 1996 she qualified as a gemmologist and diamond grader at the Gemmological Institute of America in Los Angeles, and then joined the jewellery design course taught by Bob Ahrens, who had been a designer at Van Cleef & Arpels for over 40 years. On her return to London Gratia started to design jewellery for private clients. Initially her designs were made by TJ Loughridge in London, later by Horst Lang in Idar Oberstein, Germany. Gratia then turned back to Interior Design, and designed part of the interior that won the Bentley Design Award in 2004 for a for a private project in Barbados, for which she was commissioned to design monkey motif banisters, the front door knobs, glass panels, and the monkey and pineapple motif for the outside railings.
Gratia says of her jewellery designs: ‘I have lived and studied all over the world, which feeds my passion for different styles and cultures. It’s this diversity in my life that is reflected in my designs that are sometimes pure and symmetrical, and at other times very naturalistic in form, bringing individuality and uniqueness to both my bespoke pieces and beads which I string myself.'
AUCTION DETAILS
Wednesday 24 November | 10.30am
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE
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