On Wednesday 20 November, we have our Fine Jewellery and Watches auction. A highlight from the sale is Lot 10, an important Georgian commemorative diamond and hairwork jewel for Edward IV. It was created circa 1789, after King Edward's body was rediscovered after restoration work at the Royal Chapel at Windsor Castle. Reflecting a rich history of mourning jewellery, the brooch features a small lock of hair taken from the King's remains, a practice commonly found in mourning pieces. Here, we learn more about this remarkable brooch and the tradition of mourning jewellery.
King Edward IV of England (1442-1483) was a central figure in the Wars of the Roses. Born on 28 April 1442 in Rouen, France, Edward was the eldest son of Richard, Duke of York, and Cecily Neville. His father's claim to the English throne was passed to Edward after Richard was killed at the Battle of Wakefield in 1460.
At just 18 years old, he led the Yorkist forces to a decisive victory at the Battle of Towton in 1461, effectively ending Lancastrian rule and allowing him to claim the throne as Edward IV. His reign was marked by attempts to consolidate power, but his secret marriage in 1464 to Elizabeth Woodville, a commoner and widow, sparked tensions with powerful nobles, particularly Richard Neville, the Earl of Warwick, who had been a key supporter.
The fallout from this marriage led to Edward's brief deposition in 1470 when Warwick and Edward's brother George, Duke of Clarence, aligned with the Lancastrians to restore Henry VI to the throne. However, Edward returned from exile in Flanders in 1471, reclaimed the throne after defeating Warwick at the Battle of Barnet and the Lancastrians at the Battle of Tewkesbury, and secured his position as king.
Edward's second reign (1471-1483) was more stable. He focused on restoring royal authority, strengthening the economy, and developing a more centralized government. However, his sudden death on 9 April 1483, at the age of 40, left his kingdom in turmoil. His 12-year-old son, Edward V, was declared king but was never crowned. Edward V and his brother, Richard, Duke of York, were imprisoned in the Tower of London, where they mysteriously disappeared, leading to the rise of Richard III.
Edward IV's legacy is a complex one, marked by his military successes, his efforts to stabilize the realm, and the unresolved mysteries surrounding his sons, the "Princes in the Tower."
King Edward IV was buried in St. George's Chapel at Windsor Castle, a royal chapel that he played a significant role in remodelling during his reign. Edward was laid to rest in a tomb situated in the north quire aisle of the chapel, alongside his wife, Elizabeth Woodville.
In the 18th century, during renovations to the chapel, Edward IV's tomb was accidentally disturbed, and his coffin was opened. This revealed some of his remains, including strands of his hair, which were surprisingly well preserved. These relics were later used in the creation of commemorative mourning jewellery, as was the custom of the time.
Locks of Edward IV's hair are in possession of the Society of Antiquaries and the Wellcome Collection, London, and a related mourning ring was sold at Christie's.
Interest in Memento Mori jewellery grew toward the end of the Medieval and Tudor periods and continued into the Georgian era. The phrase "Memento Mori" loosely translates to "remember you must die," and these pieces were often adorned with skulls and symbols of mortality, like hourglasses and sickles, to reflect life's fleeting nature. During the Stuart and Georgian periods, this macabre style evolved into more ornate and sentimental forms, incorporating symbols such as funerary urns and weeping willow trees. Other motifs included clasped hands and hearts symbolizing love and unity with the deceased. White enamel was commonly used to honour an unmarried woman or child. Pearls were often used to symbolise tears, especially in remembrance of young children. This trend surged in popularity during the Victorian era.
Wednesday 20 November, 10.30am GMT
Donnington Priory, Newbury, Berkshire RG14 2JE
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